The Mapillai Samba rice, rich in minerals and nutrients, is supposed to have given these prospective bridegrooms a shot of extra energy for their mission.ĭindigul might claim to be Tamil Nadu’s biryani capital, but halfway between Chennai and Bengaluru is Ambur, another town that has acquired a hallowed reputation for its biryani. Years ago, prospective grooms had to lift the stone to impress the village’s women folk. Many villages still have a Mapillai Kallu (The bridegroom’s stone). The other famous ‘Samba’ rice variety that has survived is Mapillai Samba. Kolli Hills, Kumbakonam and Lalgudi are other areas where this prized rice is also cultivated. Uppiliyapuram is part of this belt and has acquired an unrivalled reputation for its Seeraga samba crop. The rice plantations in Tamil Nadu’s Cauvery delta are among the oldest in the world and are steeped in history and legends. Some experts suggest that there were close to 400,000 varieties of rice grown in Tamil Nadu modern farming and techniques have seen this number shrink dramatically. That’s one of the reasons it has survived even as scores and scores of indigenous rice varieties have disappeared from the landscape.
It might have a lower yield than most modern rice varietals but Seeraga Samba fetches a higher price than all other varieties of rice grown in Tamil Nadu.
According to Praveen, the rice’s ability to absorb large quantities of water without turning mushy makes it ideal for biryani aside from its unique fragrance that he compares to cumin. Seeraga Samba is also known as Jeerasal and Khaima arisi. He believes the rice’s low yield (per acre) is the main reason why it’s not cultivated that much. Praveen Anand, executive chef, The Intercontinental Chennai, is a big fan of this rice varietal. I still make the occasional biryani with Basmati, but it’s become a ‘Plan B’ rice on occasions I can’t source Seeraga Samba. I love how Seeraga Samba retains its texture much like Arborio rice (an essential Italian risotto ingredient) and does not thicken into lumps – al dente comes to mind! It’s less fluffy, too, and absorbs the flavour of the masala instead of lending the dish a strong flavour the way Basmati rice does.
Cooking for me is not just about the flavours but also textures. And yet its easier to find Basmati rice in these supermarkets. Thankfully that’s changed, Seeraga Samba is available in quite a few supermarkets in Chennai and Bengaluru. It wasn’t easy to find in Chennai’s supermarkets I sourced this rice from traditional ‘rice merchants’ about a decade ago. One visit to Dindigul was all I need to switch allegiances from basmati to Seeraga Samba. The rice takes its name from jeera (seeragam in Tamil), while ‘samba’ refers to the season (typically August to January) when it is grown. The rice takes its name from Jeera (Seeragam in Tamil), because the small (much smaller than other rice varieties) ovular grains share an uncanny resemblance to jeera, while Samba refers to the season (typically August to January) when this rice is grown. For many home cooks and chefs this is Tamil Nadu’s version of biryani rice of course, this Samba has no connection with the Brazilian dance moves. Aside from the locally sourced lamb and cooking methods that hadn’t changed much in almost a century, there was one big difference – Seeraga Samba rice.īasmati rice and biryani might be inseparable across India, but ask anyone in Tamil Nadu about their quintessential biryani ingredient and chances are you will hear ‘Seeraga Samba’. After my first meal at Ponram, I realised what the fuss was all about.
I’d heard about some fascinating accounts about the flavoursome biryanis that a clutch of ‘Biryani hotels’(yes, people still call restaurants hotels on these parts) were dishing out. For long this town in southern Tamil Nadu was synonymous with locks (just like Aligarh is), but over the last decade or so it’s become the self-proclaimed biryani capital of Tamil Nadu. I still remember my first Dindigul biryani experiences from the aughts. For many in Tamil Nadu, there is no biryani without seeraga samba. Biryani with seeraga samba at the iconic Ponram Restaurant in Dindigul.
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